needlelace shapes used here are made on a prepared
needlelace pad. The filling stitches are worked onto
an outline of foundation threads, known as a cordonnet.
an 18 cm length of silk and fold in half to find
the centre point.
sewing cotton, bring the needle through at A (see
diagram) and make a single stitch over the centre
point of the cut length of silk.
the ends of the silk together so that the silk is
double, and closely couch the two threads around
you reach B (see diagram above), take the end of
one of the silk threads through the starting loop
at A and lay it back towards B. Lay the other silk
thread towards A and couch over the three threads
the thread that didn't double back on itself over
the already couched threads beyond A, and couch
over all three threads for about 1 cm.
the couching thread to the reverse and secure the
sewing cotton at the back of the work. Cut off any
remaining silk threads at the front of the work.
the shape with corded single Brussels stitch.
filling stitch is worked on the surface only and is
not stitched through the plastic and calico. To start
stitching, run your needle and thread under the couching
stitches where the first few filling stitches will
the ballpoint needle, work a foundation row of buttonhole
stitches along the top of the cordonnet. Do not
pull the stitches too tight, as the following row
is worked into the loops of the previous row.
you reach the opposite side, slip your thread under
the cordonnet and take it straight back across to
C, taking it under the cordonnet and down to the
point where the next row of buttonhole stitches
next row of buttonhole stitches should be worked
into the loops on the previous row, taking in the
straight thread at the same time. Continue in this
way until the shape has been filled.
the bottom of the shape, instead of taking the thread
straight across, work back across, whipping the
last row of loops to the cordonnet threads
neaten the edge, work buttonhole stitch as close
as possible around the edge of the shape. To stiffen
the wings, lay a length of fishing line along the
lower edge of each wing and work the buttonhole
edging over it.
remove the shape from the backing, snip the stitches
on the reverse of the calico and gently pull off.
A pair of tweezers will help to remove all the little
bits of thread.
over the padding on the main piece and stitch down
with a single strand in a sharp needle, using small,
neat stab stitches.
free stitches are created by working buttonhole
stitch over foundation threads.
a dressmakers' pin into the ground fabric
(or into a 'rock') approximately 25 mm from
the start of the picot.
a knot in a length of green thread and bring
the needle through to the front of the work
in position for the start of the picot.
the thread round the pin and insert the needle
next to where it first emerged.
the needle back through to the front slightly
to one side of the knot and take the thread
round the pin again; you should now have three
threads to work over.
a buttonhole stitch as close to the pin as
possible over two threads, then continue making
buttonhole stitches over the three threads,
up towards the start of the picot. Be careful
not to pick up any of the background fabric
or rock threads.